A Morning in Marshall Forest
Occasionally you stumble upon something special that is in close proximity to you and yet you never knew it was there. Such was the case when I was told by a friend at work of Marshall Forest Preserve which is located in Floyd County near the town of Rome, Georgia.
Marshall Forest is a 311 acre old-growth forest nestled in the Ridge and Valley Province, a geographical corridor of forests and woodlands that stretches from Pennsylvania to Alabama. Once a part of the Cherokee National lands it is one of the few old-growth forests left in the corridor and the forest ranges from 600 to 900 feet in elevation.
Marshall Forest is unusual as old-growth forests go as it is a combination of both northern and southern tree species that make up three distinct plant communities, pine-oak, chestnut oak and mixed hardwood sections that contain more than 55 different tree species.
Though the forest is in a late stage of ecological succession it is not a one plant dominated community as are most old-growth forest. It is believed that periodic ice storms and occasional fires have opened up the canopy allowing sun loving pines to take hold. So Marshall Forest is dominated in sections by an association of pines and hardwoods and still maintains a thriving population of over 300 plant species. Being one of the last stands of old-growth forest in northwest Georgia, the forest is maintained and protected by the Nature Conservancy of Georgia.
I arrived at the preserve about 7:30am just as the early morning sun began to peek through the spring foliage. As soon as entered the forest along one of the two available trails one thing became very apparent, the kings of this realm were indeed the trees. All around me stood hardwoods and pines hundreds of years old, their massive trunks reaching high through the still developing spring canopy like giant sentinels. Hardwoods such as hickory, sweet gum, oak and chestnut were scattered among massive pines that seemed to reach the heavens. The early morning rays of sunlight reached through the light mist to illuminate the huge expanse of limbs that seemed to stretch in all directions.
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There was no wind at all and the only sound was the echoing of bird song that seemed to flow through the entire forest making it impossible to spot the songs creators. Occasionally the rhythm was broken by the thump of a falling nut or pine cone or the distant bark of a squirrel. A woodpecker hammering on some distant tree rounded out the chorus.
As I moved quietly along the trail I began to notice the different bark textures of the various trees. The diversity of these textures was amazing as they formed abstract patterns and designs. Some tree trunks were straight and tall while others seemed to twist and flow as if performing some ancient dance.
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The sun was rising higher as I continued along, its golden rays reaching through the leafy canopy to cast dappled light on branches and limbs. The bird song and other sounds were increasing as the creatures of the forest began their morning rituals. I began to explore the lower levels of the forest and realized that a whole other world resided in these lower reaches. Indeed the forest floor was perhaps the true heart and soul of this place, for it was here that the forest lived, died and was born again. All around me was the spectacle of the life cycle on a forest.
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New growth was reaching out from the lower parts of the tree trunks, the tender leaves and stems reaching for the light. Ferns and mosses were growing in unison, the rich greens in stark contrast to last season’s dead and decaying leaves. Vines, one of the more dominate of the forest floor plants, clambered up the rough bark of the tree trunks or stretched out across the branches in their search for sunlight. Moss and lichens clung to the tree bark and tiny leaves sprouted from even smaller crevices, each adding to the natural balance of this place.
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But where life exits so must death. In an ancient forest such as this death is evident all around and beneath your feet. Huge trees, the victims of past lightening strikes or severe winter storms, lay stretched across the forest floor, their once elegant forms now fallen to decay. The floor itself is a carpet of fallen and decaying leaves and vegetation, littered with dead and broken limbs that are scattered like forgotten skeletons. It was saddening to look upon such majestic forms of life lying broken and forgotten by the inevitable hand of time.
But death in this place is not final. All around me from the decaying remains of the forest new life was springing forth. Tiny plants were growing from the decayed remains of tree trunks and new saplings were sprouting from the seeds of the fallen giants. Nothing in nature is ever wasted and all about me fungi and mushrooms were being nourished by the decay of the forest. Lichens and mosses covered many fallen trees, adding color and life to the cycle of decay. Once again I am awed by nature’s way of resurrection and rebirth.
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As I continued my morning journey I spotted some of the forests animal life. Squirrels scurried along the forest floor hunting nuts and my stumbling even spooked a cottontail rabbit from his resting place. Something odd caught my eye and looking closer I saw a spiked caterpillar clinging to a tiny vine. As I moved on a fluttering epitone underwing moth landed on the side of a tree trunk, its camouflage coloring blending perfectly with the textures of the tree bark. Continuing up the trail I stopped to study the broken remains of a tree trunk only to be surprised by the scampering of a five-lined skink as he hunted for small prey.
Marshall Forest had not disappointed as I returned to the parking area. The wonder of an old-growth forest had been revealed to me in many ways and to have shared time among the giants of this forest had been a privilege. However my journey was not quite done.
The preserve is home to one of the largest populations of the rare and endangered large-flowered skullcap. This indigenous plant exists in old-growth forests such as this and as these types of ecosystems are rapidly vanishing so to the rare plants such as the skullcap. Since not being familiar with the plant I had not seen any on my adventure through the forest.
However, as I returned to the parking area I met a nice gentleman from the Nature Conservancy who was at the forest to make a count of the rare plant. He was kind enough to let me tag along as he did his studies and I was hopeful we would find one in bloom. We discovered several patches of the diminutive plant but they were either through with the bloom cycle or had not bloomed at all. We discovered several more plots of the mint like plant but no blooms either. Finally we stopped at one last group and as I looked around a saw two stalks of what seemed like small white flowers growing from a mound of moss. Pointing this out to my guide he smiled and confirmed that was indeed the skullcap. Closer inspection revealed a beautiful bloom that was white with a rich purple throat, looking very much like a tiny orchid. My camera and I happily spent 30 minutes shooting from every angle possible.
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Marshall Forest Preserve is one of those secret jewels that you occasionally are fortunate to come across. This old growth forest is a prime example of how nature works her magic and to visit and see the wonders of this place was indeed a treat for me. My hat comes off to the Nature Conservancy whose mission is to preserve and protect these special places for future generations to enjoy.
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